Sunday, September 27.

After touring the entire isle of Manhattan, we were ready for a slow day in the city. We repeated the usual trip to the LIRR and made it to Penn Station by noon. We were to meet Chuck's students Laurele and Carol Rippa at Terraza Toscana for lunch at 12:30, so we hailed a taxi and made it to 50th and 9th Avenue for under $7:00. We decided we definitely liked traveling by cab in New York. We had a wonderful long lunch filled with stories, memories, and lots of trivia about New York. We saw their rent-stabilized apartment. Since they do not own a car it was interesting to hear how they traveled about and how much they loved the city. Then we had a beautiful walk through part of Central Park, down Poet's lane, occasionally noting the smell of horse (The horse cabs are everywhere.) We ducked into Tavern On The Green to go to the bathroom. That is one classy restaurant. (Partly open air.)

Since it was rainy all day, we saw an umbrella New York. We took the train home and packed for our trip to Boston.

Monday, September 28

We left Marc Greene and his niece Julie after a wonderful stay that included a Brisket dinner with Julie's scrumptious apple pie (a first for her), and lots of tour hints and good conversation. We drove to the east end of Long Island—Orient and the Orient ferry. It was a beautiful but very long drive past road stands with pumpkins, squash, and fall produce. Not much fall color yet, but it will hit 30 degrees tonight, and we are seeing some beautiful reds and yellows already.

All of those New Englanders who have two dimes to rub together love to go the shore in the Hamptons, the Cape, the shore in MA. Fortunately there is a lot of coast line so there is a place for everyone.

Our ferry ride was very similar to the trips we have had on the Washington ferries. We left Orient and turned back into the Long Island sound. Often we could see land on the North and South. The hour and a half trip was warm and relaxing. Small colonial light houses popped up in the sound by various harbors.

At New London we unloaded our car from the ferry and looked for food. Much of the sandwich fare was not appealing, but we found a small Columbian restaurant with a handsome grandfather outside welcoming patrons in Spanish. We had an incredible meal of talapia cooked in white sauce with fried platains. Then we caught I-95 and drove 3 hours to the suburbs of Boston.

Newton is the largest of suburbs with huge Victorian homes on many streets and corners. Our room was with a wonderful couple, Dan and Joan Kunitz (relatives of the poet and philosopher Stanley Kunitz). We were very comfortable, and they taxied us to the subway and tour bus. Real saints. We arrived on the eve of Yom Kipper when they were just finishing their fast. It has been great to discuss their faith and enjoy meeting these great people.

Tuesday, September 29

This was Tour Boston day. We bought a tour in a small van with a clever interpreter of Boston history. We stopped at Longfellow 's home, looked at Harvard, MIT, and Boston U campuses. Chuck was able to revisit the Charles River, and the Berklee School of Jazz in the historic Back Bay. Gentrification had totally changed the neighborhood. Gone were the hookers outside the dorms, the drunks on corners and in alleys. The new John Handcock building with its huge glass windows that pop out from time to time had completely change Copley Square. There was plenty of Revolutionary history: a tour of the USS Constitution, Bunker Hill, Breed's Hill, Old North Church, and Copps Hill Burial Ground. We also saw the impressive Old Granary Burial Ground, the Boston Commons, and the Public Gardens.

We stopped for lunch at the Quincy Marketplace. Chuck had fish and chips and I had the lobster special for $12. Then we walked over to Faneuil Hall. When Chuck was there on July 4 30 years ago, he heard the Declaration of Independence read. Today that would be impossible because it is a trinkets market. Next it was on to Paul Revere's statue, the Boston Massacre site, and the Old State House. The Freedom Trail was easy to follow.

Those of us who watched Cheers every night saw the real neighborhood, the real bar. The same exact sign.

It was a wonderful day, concluded with a great meal at a Greek restaurant with our hosts.

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Friday, September 25

Our first adventure was driving to the Ronkonkoma Long Island Railroad to catch a train to New York. Quite simple, clean, and efficient. It was an interesting ride. We started out where the homes were on huge lots. In Corum where our host lives, his home is on a huge lot of about a half acre with a pool. As we progress toward the city, the lots get smaller, houses are closer together. Soon the pools are small and above ground, and then before you know it, they are nonexistent. As we leave the suburban areas of Deer Park and move toward Brooklyn, there are fewer fields, steeples. Less green space. The paint on the homes becomes haphazard, and as we approach East New York the tenement house becomes taller and very brick.

Beside the 18 stops of the LIRR, are huge park and ride lots. Waiting in them are hundreds of cars for the many passengers of the commuter trains. A good portion of the passengers have a little privacy bubble around them---an attitude communicating a “don't bother me.”

Penn Station is huge. We departed from track # 20 and made our way above ground. One of the most remarkable things about New York is the noise. It is definitely a city for people who desire stimulation and excitement. I will do well to make it through three days. For some reason, I didn't sense the craziness in London, Barcelona, or Madrid that I feel in NYC. Perhaps when I get in the museums or Central Park it will calm down.

One of the interesting aspects about this week is the United Nations session. President Obama is here to address topics like terrorism and Iran's underground nuclear facility. This means that every time these heads of state moved from place to place, a convoy of black SUV's and police protection blazed down the street. It was also impossible to get anywhere close to the 3 United Nations buildings, particularly the General Assembly building. Police were everywhere in the city, particularly at heavy traffic intersections where they needed them.

There has been a sad consequence of the No Smoking bans in stores and restaurants. They have to smoke in the streets. That means that walking in the city or enjoying places like Times Square is difficult because every breath one takes is a smokey one.

Signage is fascinating. The huge LED screens—particularly present around Times Square, 42^nd street, etc. overshadow architecture and all else in the landscape. By Penn Station is a huge football player in his tight pants landmark. After awhile I found all of screens—especially Macy's malfunctioning one—visual overload.

The highlight of the day was a guilded cruise of the Hudson harbor. We had very good views of ellis Island, the train depot many immigrants took across America, the Statue of Liberty, Governor's Island, and the Financial District. This and the other tours we took put everything I have watched on television from business news to Law and Order in perspective. Like looking at society from a new view.

The Coast Guard has a number of small boats that look like smart rafts. They have machine guns mounted on the bow. We watched one pull over a small motor boat and give them a little chat.

Another fascinating thing about New York is the way certain industries have clustered. The garment industry is no longer there because of outsourcing that began with China's production of cheap clothing, but there are many other areas like the music instrument section, ASCAP section, the Theatre District, the area where there are hospitals and research facilities. In general, however, the trend is to tear down and build new glass or glitzy structures. Yes, there are a few of the historic buildings built in the early 1900's like the Art Decco Empire State building with its 104 floors, the Flatiron building, and the Chrysler building, but the push is to rebuild newer and “better.” Actually the Empire State building was more interesting in its architecture.

We took the express train back to Long Island with hundreds of commuters who raced to their waiting cars snoozing in cement fields by the tracks.

Saturday, September 26

This was our big touring day of New York. We covered almost all of the Island and particularly enjoyed the ethnic neighborhoods like Chinatown and Little Italy. Here is a partial list—just to help me remember the details:

I loved the trees and swankie apartments in Chelsea. Somehow I expected more unusual buildings or businesses in the Village. Saw the first pizzaria—John's. One bit of folklore about the bull on Wall Street is that if you kiss its ass, your portfolio will earn lots of money. And there was a huge line of tourists doing just that. Made me wonder what else they would kiss. The lower East side—melting pot of NY—did not have any flamboyant sights, however, there was the sense that the whole area had been the labor and the stability of the island for a long time. Of course all of the area bordering Central Park was beautiful and fascinating from the lavish 5^th avenue digs like the former home of Andrew Carnegie to the museums. Would I had a day to spend in each of them: the Whitney, the white curving Guggenheim, the Metropolitan Museum of Art (I would love 2 days for that one), the Museum of new York City, and the Museum of Natural History where the “Night in” movie was shot.

Harlem was also more of a polished city atmosphere than I expected. There were more blacks in the neighborhood, but other than that, it looked like much of the rest of the island.

Times Square was full of people by 5pm. We also had another insight into Carnegie hall, the Lincoln Center, the Apollo, and other similar venues. To attend a concert one needs to taxi, use public transportation, or pay $35 to $50 at a parking facility. I am so glad we can attend great concerts and plays without that hassle.

Biggest regret of the day? Not having time to have tea in the Plaza hotel.

Thursday, September 24

The order of things—beginning with Gaithersburg, MD:

1. Breakfast at a bagel place. Good coffee.

2. Purchased a styrofoam cooler to keep Lee's gifts from melting.

3. Left Gaithersburg for New York.

4. Called Alamo Lost and Found. They had Chuck's coat which they agreed to mail to our next stop in Boston.

5. Drove on long stretches of 10 lane freeways.

6. Stopped at a rest stop in Maryland and decided to jump for a cross-country ride to Annapolis on 301 so we could see some countryside. After several hours we decided to turn the GPS on so we could arrive at our host's before Friday.

7. Alas. That meant "flying" on the New Jersey Turnpike. Not a great experience, but we coped until our GPS told us to “Stay on I-95N” while the readout was pointing toward a road that would take us through the Lincoln Tunnel to our destination. Unfortunately we stayed left while I cursed Ms. SmartyPants of the GPS. Quite a bit later we took the George Washington Bridge (Chuck hummed Persichetti's piece while we crawled over during 5 pm traffic.)

8. Did I mention that we ended up driving through the Bronx and Queens? We wanted to see New York, but that was not the kindest way.

9. Then we had to swing South to get the Long Island Expressway. There was a fast Express lane with lots of signs explaining HOV safety. (We have no idea what HOV means.)

10. Now I know why New Yorkers drive with fists full of dollars in their right hand. Toll roads. No nickel and diming you either. We paid 5 to 10 bucks a time. When we leave for Boston we plan to take the ferry. That is not cheap, however. That will cost about $70.

11. The good news is that after a long day of driving (Did I mention the Mazda does not have cruise control), we arrived just before dark. We had traveled through 4 states.

A Long Hot Summer

September 17, 2009

It has been a very busy, hot summer. It is not unusual to look back on a summer and wonder where the time went. Weddings, concerts in Lithia Park, walks to the college--the summer is all a beautiful memory now. What I don't remember is rain this summer. Our last rain was back in June. With all of the low fronts that have blown over us, there has been no measurable rain. We came close the other night. The smell was so rich and desireable I wrote a poem about it.

The Tease

Four days dark gray
cumulous clouds
towered over our
parched valley.
The sun set behind
dusty tan hills
sulking in the shadows.

A warm earthy fragrance
suggested rain.
With bare feet I ran
to greet the drops—
but felt only a warm
damp sidewalk and
slightly slick grass.

Lonely for rain
after a long summer,
I tilt my face toward
the dark sky to feel
only three drops.
Merely the breath
of moisture.