Sunday, September 27.
After touring the entire isle of Manhattan, we were ready for a slow day in the city. We repeated the usual trip to the LIRR and made it to Penn Station by noon. We were to meet Chuck's students Laurele and Carol Rippa at Terraza Toscana for lunch at 12:30, so we hailed a taxi and made it to 50th and 9th Avenue for under $7:00. We decided we definitely liked traveling by cab in New York. We had a wonderful long lunch filled with stories, memories, and lots of trivia about New York. We saw their rent-stabilized apartment. Since they do not own a car it was interesting to hear how they traveled about and how much they loved the city. Then we had a beautiful walk through part of Central Park, down Poet's lane, occasionally noting the smell of horse (The horse cabs are everywhere.) We ducked into Tavern On The Green to go to the bathroom. That is one classy restaurant. (Partly open air.)
Since it was rainy all day, we saw an umbrella New York. We took the train home and packed for our trip to Boston.
Monday, September 28
We left Marc Greene and his niece Julie after a wonderful stay that included a Brisket dinner with Julie's scrumptious apple pie (a first for her), and lots of tour hints and good conversation. We drove to the east end of Long Island—Orient and the Orient ferry. It was a beautiful but very long drive past road stands with pumpkins, squash, and fall produce. Not much fall color yet, but it will hit 30 degrees tonight, and we are seeing some beautiful reds and yellows already.
All of those New Englanders who have two dimes to rub together love to go the shore in the Hamptons, the Cape, the shore in MA. Fortunately there is a lot of coast line so there is a place for everyone.
Our ferry ride was very similar to the trips we have had on the Washington ferries. We left Orient and turned back into the Long Island sound. Often we could see land on the North and South. The hour and a half trip was warm and relaxing. Small colonial light houses popped up in the sound by various harbors.
At New London we unloaded our car from the ferry and looked for food. Much of the sandwich fare was not appealing, but we found a small Columbian restaurant with a handsome grandfather outside welcoming patrons in Spanish. We had an incredible meal of talapia cooked in white sauce with fried platains. Then we caught I-95 and drove 3 hours to the suburbs of Boston.
Newton is the largest of suburbs with huge Victorian homes on many streets and corners. Our room was with a wonderful couple, Dan and Joan Kunitz (relatives of the poet and philosopher Stanley Kunitz). We were very comfortable, and they taxied us to the subway and tour bus. Real saints. We arrived on the eve of Yom Kipper when they were just finishing their fast. It has been great to discuss their faith and enjoy meeting these great people.
Tuesday, September 29
This was Tour Boston day. We bought a tour in a small van with a clever interpreter of Boston history. We stopped at Longfellow 's home, looked at Harvard, MIT, and Boston U campuses. Chuck was able to revisit the Charles River, and the Berklee School of Jazz in the historic Back Bay. Gentrification had totally changed the neighborhood. Gone were the hookers outside the dorms, the drunks on corners and in alleys. The new John Handcock building with its huge glass windows that pop out from time to time had completely change Copley Square. There was plenty of Revolutionary history: a tour of the USS Constitution, Bunker Hill, Breed's Hill, Old North Church, and Copps Hill Burial Ground. We also saw the impressive Old Granary Burial Ground, the Boston Commons, and the Public Gardens.
We stopped for lunch at the Quincy Marketplace. Chuck had fish and chips and I had the lobster special for $12. Then we walked over to Faneuil Hall. When Chuck was there on July 4 30 years ago, he heard the Declaration of Independence read. Today that would be impossible because it is a trinkets market. Next it was on to Paul Revere's statue, the Boston Massacre site, and the Old State House. The Freedom Trail was easy to follow.
Those of us who watched Cheers every night saw the real neighborhood, the real bar. The same exact sign.
It was a wonderful day, concluded with a great meal at a Greek restaurant with our hosts.
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