Asheville to the Smoky Mountains

Asheville is a charming mountain town that reminds me of my home in Ashland. In the foothills of the Appalachian mountains (also called the Blue Ridge Mountains) the Cherokee were the first settlers until some adventurers from the Morristown settlement wandered over in about 1797. This was largely tobacco growing country until George Vanderbuilt decided to build a home on 8000 acres of his property in 1889. After the Biltmore became a destination for the rich and famous with its 250 rooms, the Grove Inn was built. Since Obama was vacationing there while we were in the Comfort Inn, I'd say that the Grove still has its appeal.

After we arrived in town, we parked the car and took a walk past the 1930's art decco city hall, the theatre where Charlton Heston directed a play as a young man, the boarding house of Thomas Wolfe's mom where Wolfe spent his youth. I decided to put one of his novels on my reading list because it had been years since I had read You Can't Go Home Again. (He did write about Asheville, and the fact he tried to disguise the name in his unflattering accounts has not kept Asheville from memorializing him.

After Asheville, we traveled toward the Smokies. We kept thinking that we would outrun the resorts and hotels, but since Asheville and the Smokies are so beautiful, the whole area has been commercialized. We stopped in Cherokee, a small community that houses a museum of that Indian nation, and enjoyed the exhibits. Then we stopped at the native craft store across the street. There were beautiful displays of artists and their work as well as valuable baskets and ware for sale. We moved on and drove as far into the Smokies as it deemed prudent considering the time we needed to drive back to Atlanta. It was a rainy day, and much of the mountain range was in fog. So we headed “home.”

This trip has been an interesting window into the Southeast. Despite the fact I was sick with allergies most of the time, I really enjoyed talking to the southerners and studying their history. If we ever get a chance to go back, I definitely want to spend more time in west North Carolina. It is a gorgeous place.

We are home now after driving 3600 miles. We had some beautiful moments with great new and old friends. We were greated by chilling weather and snow on the mountain.

3000 Miles Of Food

Travelers need to eat. We have done very well in that category. Most of the food was inexpensive, There were good meals and there were horrid meals. Sometimes the need to feed a diabetic husband got in the way of an intelligent choice.

Horrid

TGI Fridays was one of the worst places for a senior citizen (and perhaps anyone else) to stop. We were in the Keys and well past time to eat. There was no senior menu, so we decided to split a meal. We selected the steak, shrimp combo, and I had a extra side salad. The salad was small, the steak was pre-salted with tons of butter and sodium. The steak was overcooked. Even the shrimp were salted. The restaurant may have a good bar, but it had little else that pleased us.

Pretty Darn Good

In Montgomery, Alabama, we stopped at Lek's Railroad Thai. The food was fresh, with crunchy veggys, tasty sauces, for a very reasonable price.

Georgia had several very inexpensive and delicious restaurants: The Bamboo Curtain was a small take out restaurant with several tables. The best $6 meal around. Then we really hit the jackpot at Kikko' Asian Buffet. We normally don't do buffets, but this one was $6, so we felt we wouldn't lose money. There were over 100 items of delicious and well-prepared food. My meal included salmon, barbecued chicken, a great salad with apples and cucumbers. Great eats in Savannah, but we didn't gain 20 lbs eating Paula Dean's special dishes or spend a fortune doing it.

In Atlanta we found the Landmark Diner. Known for its incredible cakes, it also served very generous portions of pot roast or leg of lamb. Chuck and I would split a dinner and even enjoyed a slice of caramel mouse cake.

Somewhere in North Carolina we found Melvin's Barbecue. Barbecue is a big specialty in the south, so we tried this restaurant that had both eat in service and a drive up window. (And heavenly smells.) We ordered pork platters, but I had a side of fried okra. I couldn't imagine what fried okra would taste like, so I was surprised to find that it was pieces of okra, breaded, and deep fried. Very sinful, but very tasty.

When we were at the Keys in Florida, I received a recommendation from a guy at a gas station who just happened to be a chef. He suggested the Conch House, so we followed his directions to a little restaurant in a house hidden in the trees. Our meal was fish tacos with yellowtail fish, and homemade chips. Perhaps the best part was their homemade key lime pie. Excellent flavor.

Best Ambiance

We took Waldie and Carolyn to their choice of restaurants. It was a seafood restaurant on the gulf that they used to enjoy a lot before a hurricane had taken it out. The new Angelo's still had a wonderful view of the bridge and gulf, and even better seafood. Since the restaurant had its own fishing boats, they had very fresh fish, and it was beautifully prepared. Chuck and I shared a stuffed grouper, and savored the incredible sauce and the scallop and shrimp stuffing.

Perhaps the best part of the trip was returning home feeling well-fed, but not over-fed.

The Browns

My husband Chuck has friends--Bill and Mary Brown-- he taught with in Sitka, Alaska, way back in the early 50's. After he and the Browns left Alaska, they kept their friendship alive by visiting each other and sharing good times. The Browns would drive to Hoquiam, and both families would enjoy clam digging and the ocean beaches. The Chuck would drive his family to California, and they would enjoy Disneyland and life in a sunny place less rainy than Washington.

Now 60 years later they are having a joyful reunion here in Wake Forest where Bill and Mary live with their children Pastor Scott Brown, his wife Deborah, and their beautiful children. Their home is an apartment in an immense barn with rooms around the eaves of the great room. There is a huge stone fireplace which was constructed from the stones of an old abandoned house on Scott's 120 acres. There are three natural ponds on the land, a few pastured cows, and stands of timber on the rolling hills. We have enjoyed a church picnic, complete with softball, ultimate frisbee, and volleyball. Sunday morning we all worshiped at Hope Baptist Church which meets at Tuxedo Junction, a Wake Forest ballroom. After many memories, laughs, and some prayer time, we are off to the Smokey Mountains.

Charleston and North

Charleston is just a hop and jump north of Savannah. We dropped off the freeway at the Visitor Center in Charleston only to find the parking lot was full. My hero, Chuck the incredible driver, parallel parked on a side street for free. There was only an inch or so on each bumper, plus it had to be the only free place in the city. We snagged a good map at the visitor's center and decided to walk what looked like a short ways to the Battery, a park on the bay. We walked about four blocks admiring large buildings, old buildings, when Maryann struck up a conversation with a city cop who was heading the same direction. We were at the Four Corners of Law. He pointed out the Federal building, the State building, a church (God's law), and the city hall we were standing by, each on a corner. This incredibly generous man proceeded to give us a tour of the newly renovated building. The main council room was restored to what it was in the 1700's, complete with the school desk-like tables. The art in the room was noteable with paintings of Andrew Jackson, John Calhoun, and an 8 million dollar painting of George Washington. The focus of the room was the painting of Washington, but this was the second painting of Washington by that artist. Washington had visited Charleston and posed for the artist who painted a nice likeness in front of a horse whose head was over his right shoulder. Unfortunately Washington didn't like the painting, so the artist painted a second one which is the one hanging in the council chambers. This painting of Washington is just like the first except for the horse. In this painting, the horse's rear is over his shoulder, and the tail is up. Well, you get the artist's message.

Then we started toward the bay again, walking past beautiful Charleston mansions. Meeting Street smelled of horse urine because of all the horse drawn tour wagons, but other than that, it was a beautiful walk past huge homes with balconies on the sides—either the West or South to take advantage of shade. By the time we reached the bay and a view of Fort Sumpter—that three story fort in the middle of the bay, we were really bushed. We looked for bus stops, only to find there weren't any. (We found out later that the bus stops had been changed, but our old map from the visitor's center had not.) So we hired a bike taxi to take us back to our car. Wise investment.

We drove through Myrtle Beach on our way to Wilmington, NC. So many expensive restaurants, so many golf courses. My brother would have loved it.

Savannah

We expected to love Savannah, but we had no idea how different it would be from St. Augustine just a few miles away. I knew the homes would be big and grand, but I had no idea they would be three story giants that are more like banks or libraries. Of course not all homes were mansions, but three story row homes lined up next to the more stately homes. We arrived in Savannah on Bay Street and parked in front of what used to be the famous cotton exchange which helped make Savannah's rail and commercial success. We walked along the river and imagined the ships coming in full of bricks for ballast, unload, and then leave with bales of cotton. Those old bricks are now worth about $6. a piece. Then we drove the historic district, taking note of the charming squares (24 in all) that occur every few blocks. The squares have fountains, or statues in memory of founders like Olglethorpe. We parked the car and walked in Forsyth Park, stopping to admire the fountain. The live oaks and the Spanish Moss made beautiful canopy walkways.

The Savannah History center pesented an excellent film on important points in Savannah history. Their displays were excellent too. It was interesting to me that the Indians in this area built circular homes with thatched grass roofs. There were odd displays, like Forest Gump's bench. Chuck was taken with the World War II display and the items---mess kit, mirror, M1 carbine, M1 rifle—which were once part of his life and are now a history exhibit. Chuck discovered he couldn't remember his rifle number anymore, a number he had blazoned in his memory for years.

Our best adventure was our morning at Fort Pulaski on the island of Cockspur. Fort Pulaski was built by the Union, occupied by the Confederates after Georgia succeeded, then a part of the Union conquests when Olmstead surrendered after the rifled canons blew a wall to smitherines. The Union mainly used the fort as a prison for 600 Confederate officers. The moat was interesting because it was tidal. The 7 ft deep water could be added or flushed out with adjustable gates. The human sewage of the fort drained into the moat, so it was really one big comode. It was Robert E Lee's first job design the drainage system for the island. The entire fort—which took 18 years and a million dollars to build—had fascinating brickwork and structure.

It was a great visit, and it is onward to Charleston.

St. Augustine

St. Augustine is steeped in history: at age 444 it has the longest history of any city in the United States. It was founded September 8, 1565, and named for the saint whose feast was that day. Under the control of Spain the settlement grew on this land that was first discovered by Ponce de Leon. In order to protect his settlement, Admiral Menendez had to fight off the French, Sir Francis Drake, hurricanes, fire, the British, piracy, and illegal trade. After control passed back and forth between countries, St. Augustine finally became part of the United States in 1821.

We were very fortunate to have E & B hosts there, but outside of town a few miles in the International World of Golf. This was a very interesting place where there is a big golf museum, streets dedicated to golfers, some retail stores dedicated specifically to golfers, and several world class golf courses, including Saw Grass. Our new friends Bill and Anita lived in a development close but not attached to the golf complex, for they were sailors, not golfers. Their home was built along a decorative lake and had a nice view out their family room. Their home still had that “new-just-built” smell, and better yet, a guest room with a new bed and its own bathroom. We slept like the weary travelers we were. We really enjoyed Bill and Anita as well as a dinner with them at a very fashionable and excellent restaurant on the bay.

Our visit of the historic town included most of the first buildings in the country. First we visited the Castill0 de San Marcos, an early fortress started in 1739 for defense. More than once the settlement hid behind the walls made of coquina, a soft limestone which contains pieces of shells and coral fragments. We saw a small wooden building built in the 1750's which is probably one of the oldest school buildings.

In addition to the first settlement artifacts, there are fantastic remains from the Henry Flagler era.

Flagler was a partner with Rockefeller in Standard Oil who looked for a warm winter resort for an ailing wife. (He had several wives.) After falling in love with the St. Augustine area, he built a beautiful hotel there, added a railroad, invited all his rich New York friends to spend a season there, and then added other hotels, churches, and services. The Ponce de Leon Hotel has beautiful Tiffany windows, Tiffany chandeliers, and beautiful carved woodwork. He later built the Alcazar Hotel, which had a 19^th century spa in it and a huge pool the size of a gym with a floating platform for a band to entertain diners on the surrounding decks. In 1948 Otto Lightner, publisher of Hobbies magazine, bought the building and turned it into a museum of his collections of collections. We enjoyed displays of Tiffany windows and glass, cigar wrappers, purses, toasters, as well as other objects. Then we visited the Cathedral and Basilica of St. Augustine built in 1887. All in all, it was a delightful visit to a town crammed with tourists and clanging tourist trains.

GPS = Goofy Pickey Service

We have had such a love-hate relationship with our Garmin GPS. Only 2 days into our New England trip, “maggie”--that's the name we gave the unit's voice—stopped talking to us, the car drove in circles, and signs flashed that it had lost its satellites. Busted. And we were on the New Jeresey Turnpike.

We have had much better luck with the replacement unit. Until today. Today our unit suddenly lost its voice. We had to pay special attention to every word at the top of the screen. Later we checked the settings, only to discover the voice was “not available.” Admitedly the car is more peaceful without that GPS nagging us. However, the vocal directions did preview turns and we needed that feature.

Later.......

A bit down the road we turned on the unit again, and, happily enough, the voice was back. This time, however, the voice was Africanus. Sounded like German (or Greek) to me. Anyway, after going back to the settings and changing the Voice to English, Maggie was back.

It is interesting how the unit cannot find certain addresses. It sent us on a route to our host in Miami that left us on a street that did not connect to her apartment. It is a flawed system, but definitely better than not having one.

The Other 5 Percent

Today we drove into the Bal Harbour Mall and discovered how the very wealthy live. Parking was $4 an hour UNLESS the ticket was validated by a purchase. Didn't sound that hard. However, the shops were Versasce, Neiman-Marcus, Saks 5^th Avenue, and other upscale stores. All of the stores had a small stock artfully and tastefully displayed and couches and arm chairs for the shoppers. In contrast to the Aventura Mall there was no loud rock music or screeching golf carts transporting disabled shoppers. It was quiet, classy with koi filled pools and waterfalls. The one restaurant was definitely in the $$ category, and so we were not going to validate our parking by a $15 sandwich. Chuck scored by buying a cup of tea while I “shopped” in Saks. Saks was more approachable because it had many departments and I would be slightly more invisible. Interesting. No price tags showing: I would have to pick up an item and search. I found a pair of cork, wedgie thongs for $390 that were shoes I might wear in Medford. Most of the clothes I saw (and couldn't afford) I wouldn't be comfortable flaunting back in Oregon.

The best of Miami Beach

Our best times were the long walk along the beach in front of the exclusive highrise condos and hotels. In the metro area, we found a mall-like street called Lincoln Road that was a great place to grab a chair and people watch. Chuck especially enjoyed the beautiful women of all colors who seemed to be in a competition to see how much cleavage they could show. On our way to the 17^th street garage, we stopped at a bar and had a beer in their outside patio. A perfect end to a day in Miami.

Miami and Beyond

Driving across the Everglades on I-75, I wondered how early visitors traveled this route. The water table is so high I can't imagine anything besides boats. But since the population is mostly on the shores, people probably settled on the coast and moved inland slowly. The Miami suburban area was not impressive at first, but hopefully we will see some 'drop dead” views later.

Our most enjoyable time is this area has been Key West. The Keys are an interesting drive, although there were no alligators or deer on the road as advertised. And, at 45mph, the 165 miles felt more like 500 miles. Each little community has its own shops and businesses. Dive shops define Key Largo, T-shirt shops Marathon, and Bars and B & B's are all over Old Town Key West. All around, lapping at this civilization which is only 5 feet or so able sea level, is the most magnificent and undescribable blue water I have ever seen. Sadly no picture could do it justice. The locals explained that the light blue-green water is not the normal color, but that the 20 mph winds had stirred up the water adding more of a milky consistency to it.

Hemingway's home is a typical structure for a home: two stories with big windows (many patio-like doors in the living room), formal dining room, three bedrooms upsstairs. There was also a bath upstairs because there was a huge tank of water above the bathroom, supported by two huge beams. The master bedroom was large for the time—a king composed of two twins tied together and a huge gate for a headboard. His writing office behind the house was above a garage or pool house. Probably not the coolest building in the complex, but the office was large and very private.

And cats ruled. Supposedly there are 45 cats on the premise. There was a “cat house” that housed maybe 15 or 20 cats. At feeding time a gentleman ran around distributing canned food on paper plates.

Chuck and I laughed at the urinal from Sloppy Joe's that Hemingway turned into a drinking fountain for his cats.

After a little rest Chuck and I decided to “do the town.” We drove around the island, looking at sights like the Key West White House where Truman, Kennedy, and Eisenhower stayed. Finally we found a place to park in old town that didn't cost $20, (yea—it was free) and walked over to Duval street where most of the tourists were spending their money. Of course, first stop was Sloppy Joe's where Hemingway used to hang out. I can't imagine that he would like it now—very loud music, Biker crowd. Definitely not a “Clean Well Lighted Place.” We walked up and down the street, enjoyed the tourists, the shops we didn't enter, and examined the bars for a good place for drinks and a snack. Finally we went to Fogarties and their bar the Flying Monkeys. We sat outside under the trees and enjoyed a seafood platter and drinks. A perfect evening.

The Homossasa Springs Wildlife State Park

We stopped at a seafood diner in Crystal Creek, Florida, and they suggested a stop at Homossasa Park. It sounded like a great place to take a walk, and I had a burning desire to see a manatee or two, so we stopped for a visit. It was not disappointing. The ranger gave a brief lecture on the manatees, and they showed up--those 2000 lb cows--to eat their lettuce. We were so close to the birds and animals. I discovered hippos have hair on their ears. Huge turtles, bigger alligators. From an underwater observatory, we saw lots of fish down at the center of the springs. All in all, it was a gorgeous walk through Florida foliage and wildlife.

Tallahassee

For Chuck it is possible to have a great reunion with a college roommate. That has brought us to Tallahassee, Florida, and a warmer climate this time of year than Oregon. It has been a pleasure to see the great joy and comradeship the two of them have as they share their musical experiences. A record comes out, we all listen to the bassoon or the oratorio. Great times. I have never had the experience of having a college roommate. My first roommate was Nancy Harvey, a fellow new teacher in Racine, WI. I can't remember how we were put together, but we ended up renting a small two bedroom apartment for our first years with the Racine school system. She taught me how much work it was to be an elementary school teacher--a very valuable lesson for later in life when I would negotiate benefits for a group with whom I had never been a fellow member. She has taught me how valuable these friendships are, so coming to Florida to see Waldie and Carolyn was a must.

Last night Chuck and Waldie went to an outdoor "Pops" concert of Florida State University. Waldie's wife, Carolyn Bridger was playing the electric piano on numbers that were all about moonlight and the stars. I stayed home because I discovered the high pollen count in Florida and Georgia this time of year is a big allergy experience for me. I haven't had allergies like this since I was in high school. However, this time I have asthma, so it is that much worse. By last night, I just wanted to sulk on the couch and blow my nose all by myself.

A highlight of the trip was our Sunday trip to Wakulla Springs for a river cruise and then an elegant dinner. I couldn't believe a swimming hole just feet away from where the alligators bask in the sun. Wouldn't get me dipping a toe in that water. We saw huge turtles and alligators sharing the same log, egrets and other local birds, It was a beautiful cruise, followed by a dinner at Angelo and Son's in Panacea, Florida, on the mouth of the Chatahoochie River and the Gulf. This is a restaurant that had to rebuild after it was destroyed by Hurricane Dennis in 2005. So we visited the rebuilt, remodeled version that was a very beautiful restaurant. We had grouper stuffed with shrimp and scallops and various seafood, with salad and hush puppies. One of my very best meals.

Tomorrow it is off to St. Petersburg.

Pensacola

After a long drive through a rainy Alabama, we have arrived to sunshine, a soft bed, and an evening snack.

Leaving Atlanta was not easy because we missed a ramp to I-85. So we stopped to ask questions at a gas station. A white gentleman behind the counter gave us directions, but he had his mouth full of food—it looked like he was chewing some of the south's famous chicken—so we asked a black gentleman outside the station. He gave us good directions, but when we started to mess up and take the wrong exit, he honked from the other lane and led to the correct lane. So we kept driving along the freeway, trying to get a sense of what lie beyond. Of course that didn't work, so we drove into downtown Montgomery and took a brief historic tour.

We began at the Montgomery Visitor's Center which used to be the Union Station. Chuck was famished so we ate at a fantastic Thai restaurant that was a part of the station. Then we boarded a touring trolley which drove us to some of the most important sites of the First White House of the Confederacy, the Dexter Baptist Church where Martin Luther King, Jr. was pastor, his home, and the Alabama State Capitol where he tried to end his Freedom March from Selma. There were other important buildings, and we enjoyed a break from the car. After our tour it was back into our Nissan Versa and on to Pensacola.

After a long drive through a rainy Alabama, we have arrived to sunshine, a soft bed, and an evening snack.

Leaving Atlanta was not easy because we missed a ramp to I-85. So we stopped to ask questions at a gas station. A white gentleman behind the counter gave us directions, but he had his mouth full of food—it looked like he was chewing some of the south's famous chicken—so we asked a black gentleman outside the station. He gave us good directions, but when we started to mess up and take the wrong exit, he honked from the other lane and led to the correct lane. So we kept driving along the freeway, trying to get a sense of what lie beyond. Of course that didn't work, so we drove into downtown Montgomery and took a brief historic tour.

We began at the Montgomery Visitor's Center which used to be the Union Station. Chuck was famished so we ate at a fantastic Thai restaurant that was a part of the station. Then we boarded a touring trolley which drove us to some of the most important sites of the First White House of the Confederacy, the Dexter Baptist Church where Martin Luther King, Jr. was pastor, his home, and the Alabama State Capitol where he tried to end his Freedom March from Selma. There were other important buildings, and we enjoyed a break from the car. After our tour it was back into our Nissan Versa and on to Pensacola.

Transitions

Some transitions are easier than others.

For 68 years Chuck has been a concert musician. His passion for music has been unquenchable. He plays in a concert band for professional musicians that he helped start a few years ago. Realizing that good musicians need to keep their edge, he practices daily and diligently. He plays a bass clarinet now. Because it sits on the floor, it is the perfect instrument to rest on the floor and take pressure off his arthritic fingers.

The band fellowship means so much to him. He really enjoys the men and women who love the same craft, who get that thrill when they are rhythmically and harmonically in sync. Concerts have been an important part of his life, and we have planned vacations and events around his rehearsal schedule.

Going back to his days as a high school band director, he directed in front of the drum line. Things haven't changed much. He still sits in from of the drums at rehearsal and concerts. Proximity to the drums and loud brass have taken their toll over the years. He has lost most of his hearing. Tragically, that which he loves the most is also destroying his hearing.

So last night he told his current director that this would be his last season playing. He has been fighting this decision, but he really wants to retain what little hearing he has left. Of course he will continue to play in the Ashland City band. The rehearsal room is better, and the concerts are out of doors, so the sound doesn't hit his ear drums with quite the intensity.

We have been going to concerts for so many years now. Of course we will continue, but it will be different for him to just be audience-- a different road on the journey of life.

Quilts and More Quilts

As I have blogged before, I love quilts. One of my treasures is the quilt Grandmother Nitzke made for me. Fortunately, the art of quilting is still constant in my family. Not me, sadly. I go crazy over the patterns, the fabric, but have not had the discipline to try this exacting craft. Pictured above are two of my sister-in-law Carol's projects. Both are going to make up into beautiful quilts. I really appreciated how Carol would slip into the sewing room for a half-hour and assemble two or three little pieces. Quilting definitely lends itself to that persistent "little work here, little work later" effort.

My Brother, The Bowling Alley Cook

My sister-in-law Carol's son Chris and Nancy moved back to Sac City and purchased the town's (population 3,500) only bowling alley. When my brother retired, he agreed to work there in what I now call, "the family business." Chris and Nancy are an impressive couple in their 20's with a very professional approach to their business. So Mike's role has been to cook and serve up the yummy beef tenderloin sandwiches, the huge burgers and sloppy Joes, and what serves as a great all purpose bar and grill. Surely he didn't imagine this job when he was thinking of retirement. He's an outdoors kind of guy. But part time jobs are hard to find these days and he is enjoying it.

His cooking doesn't stop at the bowling alley. He fires up his smoker and prepares meals like French onion soup with smoked onions, incredible smoked ham, and other dishes. He subscribes to Food and Wine and other cooking magazines. I have to say, I really enjoyed the fruits of his hobby.